Our Ultimate 35-Day Balinese Expedition

Rainforests, Reefs and Unforgettable Memories

Michael Mann

8/22/202610 min read

Our Ultimate 35-Day Bali Family Expedition: Rainforests, Reefs, and Unforgettable Memories

Thinking about planning an epic long-term escape with your family? We recently returned from an incredible 35-day journey through Bali and beyond with my wife and our 13-year-old son. It was an adventure filled with lush landscapes, dramatic active volcanoes, and some of the most spectacular marine life on earth.

Here is our honest breakdown of the ultimate extended family itinerary, including our top recommendations, what to splurge on, and the tourist traps to avoid.

The Long-Haul Reality: Why Business Class is Worth It

Let’s be honest, getting to Indonesia from the West is a brutal marathon of a travel day. We started and ended our trip in Denpasar, and after looking at the sheer number of hours we spent traveling to and from Bali, we highly recommend splurging on upgraded flights for improved long-haul comfort.

Our Recommendation: If your budget allows it, splurge for the business class ticket. Having lie-flat seats on an ultra-long-haul flight means actually sleeping, arriving without severe jet lag, and hitting the ground running. Arriving at Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar, we were immediately greeted by the classic, bustling sights of the city, like intricate stone gateways, standard street-side offerings, and the warm, tropical breeze. From there, we bypassed the chaotic airport taxis and took a seamless pre-booked ride straight to the cultural heart of the island in Ubud.

Ubud: Rainforests, Rice Fields, and Luxury Ecolodges

Ubud is a dreamscape of emerald green. We spent our days exploring the towering, moss-draped canopy of the Sacred Monkey Forest, walking the iconic steps of the terraced Tegallalang and Ceking Rice Terraces, and interacting responsibly with rescued gentle giants at a reputable local elephant sanctuary. My wife absolutely loved browsing the local artisan markets, bargaining for unique woodcarvings and woven souvenirs.

Safety Tip: While walking through the Sacred Monkey Forest is an unforgettable experience, it requires strict adherence to safety rules. The monkeys are fascinating to watch and walk among as long as you resist the temptation to actively interact with them. You should never touch or feed them, and it is vital to avoid direct eye contact, especially with the large alpha males, as they perceive this as a challenge or threat. These animals are incredibly clever and quick to steal anything loose, so you must securely stow away sunglasses, hats, jewelry, and any visible food before entering their territory.

Where to Stay: Bambu Indah Sustainable Artisanal Luxury
Set along the Ayung River in Sayan just outside central Ubud, Bambu Indah is an eco-luxury sanctuary that reimagines traditional Balinese hospitality. Founded as an accidental hotel from restored antique bridal homes, the property feels like an organic playground woven directly into the jungle canopy.

The property features unique standalone structures ranging from centuries-old Javanese teakwood bridal houses to whimsical multi-level bamboo structures. Rooms feature hand-carved woodwork, muslin-draped canopy beds with integrated air conditioning, and open-air architecture that lets the sounds of the rainforest filter inside. Bathrooms are a major design centerpiece, showcasing hand-hammered freestanding copper soaking tubs, outdoor rain showers, and natural stone finishes.

The River and Natural Pools
The property landscape flows dramatically down the valley ridge to meet the rushing Ayung River below. Guests can walk hand-laid stone paths and cross swinging suspension bridges to access the water. The property features natural spring-fed lava stone pools with zero chemical filtration, allowing guests to swim alongside local river fish in crystal clear mountain water surrounded by smooth river rocks.

Fueling the Adventure: Food We Crave
Dining at Bambu Indah centers around regenerative farm-to-table practices. The kitchens, including the open-air Dapoer restaurant and the Riverside Warung, source produce directly from the on-site permaculture gardens and local agricultural partners.

Indonesian food quickly became a family favorite. Every morning began with an authentic Indonesian breakfast. Our son became completely obsessed with Nasi Goreng, which is classic Indonesian fried rice topped with a fried egg, eating it almost daily. The Bambu Indah kitchen serves vibrant Indonesian dishes, freshly pressed juices, herbal tonics, and an array of plant-forward options prepared over open-flame kitchens. We washed everything down with vibrant, refreshing dragon fruit smoothies that tasted like pure tropical sunshine.

Views and Atmosphere
The resort cascades down a dramatic ridge toward the rushing Ayung River. The clifftop sunset bar provides sweeping panoramic views over working rice terraces, river gorges, and dense tropical foliage as dusk settles over the valley. The resort features an innovative open-air elevator that descends the steep ridge, offering a scenic ride down to the water’s edge. Down at the base, a network of rustic, swinging bamboo suspension bridges arches across the Ayung River to connect guests with secluded pools, trails, and gardens.

Pro-Tip: Pack Light!
Do not overpack for a 35-day trip. Laundry services are everywhere in Bali, highly professional, and unbelievably economical. You can drop off a massive, full load of clothes and have it washed, dried, and neatly pressed for under 10 dollars.

The Daily Luxury: 6 to 20 Dollar Massages

One of the absolute greatest perks of an extended stay in Bali is the wellness culture. You can step into a pristine local spa and get an incredible, high-quality massage for anywhere between 6 to 20 dollars per hour. We made it a family rule to get pampered almost every single day after long afternoons of hiking through the rainforest.

Sidemen: Volcano Views

Moving away from the crowds of Ubud, we headed east into the untouched valleys of Sidemen to find a quieter rhythm. Sidemen is a quieter, more peaceful side of Bali. This is where you come to soak in the views and find a quieter pace. Making silver jewelry at Agung Silver was a highlight of our trip, and we brought home some gorgeous mementos from our journey.

The Highlight: Patal Kikian Untouched Valleys and Majestic Volcano Panoramas
Located in the quiet rural village of Sidemen in eastern Bali, Patal Kikian offers an intimate, tranquil retreat far away from southern tourist crowds. It delivers an authentic look at traditional village life framed by dramatic topography.

Accommodations consist of spacious, temple-style private villas and bungalows perched along the ridge. The rooms feature authentic Balinese stone and woodwork, fan cooling, comfortable beds with protective mosquito netting, and expansive private terraces. The understated room design focuses on tranquility and privacy, allowing the natural surroundings to take center stage.

The open-air restaurant sits right beside the ridge edge, serving freshly prepared traditional Balinese specialties and classic Indonesian favorites like beef rendang and mie goreng alongside international staples. Guests can enjoy breakfast and sunset dining accompanied by cooling mountain breezes and unobstructed valley perspectives.

The defining highlight of Patal Kikian is its world-class panoramic scenery. The property features an infinity pool that appears to drop directly into the lush green river valleys and terraced rice paddies below. Waking up here rewards you with unmatched, jaw-dropping, unobstructed views of Mount Agung volcano cutting into the clouds. On clear mornings, the view of the volcano dominating the horizon without any obstruction is widely considered one of the most breathtaking sights on the entire island. It is peaceful, majestic, and completely surreal.

The Reality of Lovina: Cultural Beauty, Wildlife Ethics, and Coastal Runoff

Our journey north to Lovina took us through the central highlands. While the drive through the mountains is spectacularly beautiful with its misty peaks and deep green valleys, the winding, narrow roads and aggressive traffic can make the journey absolutely hair-raising.

Northern Bali has a lot of culture and beauty to offer. We experienced a spectacular sunrise on the mountain via an early morning 4WD jeep tour up Mount Batur in Kintamani. While the open-air ride through the dark volcanic terrain can be quite bumpy, watching the clouds and the morning light break over the vast caldera lake is an incredible, low-effort alternative to the standard uphill trek.

During our journey through the north, we also visited several iconic cultural sites like:

Taman Tirta Gangga: The royal water garden features a labyrinth of stone stepping stones, ornate fountains, and historic bathing pools surrounded by lush landscaping and massive koi fish.

Pura Lempuyang: Famous for the Gates of Heaven, this high-altitude temple provides a striking stone gateway framing the sky, catching a perfect mirror reflection across the water below.

Pura Ulun Danu Bratan: Perched right on the shores of Lake Beratan in Bedugul, this floating multi-tiered Hindu shrine sits gracefully against a dramatic backdrop of misty mountain peaks

Unfortunately, the coast itself did not live up to the drive. We traveled there hoping to see the region’s famous wild dolphins, but we strongly advise against it. The experience borders on wildlife harassment. Rather than a serene nature tour, dozens of motorized local boats aggressively pursue and surround the pods the second a dolphin surfaces to breathe. It felt intrusive, disruptive, and ethically concerning, making it an activity we recommend skipping entirely.

Beyond the tours, the northern shoreline suffers from significant environmental strain. Seasonal ocean currents sweep marine debris across from neighboring Java, while rainfall washes plastic waste down from mountain villages through local streams and rivers straight into the Bali Sea. This runoff lands squarely on the beachfronts of local resorts. What appears picturesque from a distance reveals a sobering look at regional waste infrastructure challenges up close.

Getting Out on the Water: Safety and Island Hopping

The marine life in Indonesia is world-class, but a word of warning: choose your snorkeling and diving excursions with caution. Marine safety regulations, boat maintenance, and rental gear standards across the country are significantly lower than American or European baselines. However, with the right certified operator, you absolutely should not hesitate to get out on the water.

From Lovina, we took a local ferry over to the three tiny Gili Islands for a short stay. With absolutely no motorized cars allowed on the islands, we spent our days blissfully bicycling along sandy paths around the entire perimeter of the island.

While staying on the Gilis, we chartered a private local snorkeling trip for less than the cost of a McDonald's lunch for two, and had the incredible opportunity to swim alongside wild sea turtles. Although the ocean currents were exceptionally strong and required steady swimming, the underwater sights were completely amazing, with pristine clarity and vibrant marine life resting just below the surface.

The Grand Finale: A 3-Day Phinisi Cruise to Komodo Island

To wrap up our 35 days, we caught a quick domestic flight out of Denpasar to Labuan Bajo, which is the gateway to Komodo National Park. From there, we boarded a traditional, majestic wooden Phinisi boat for a luxury 3-day liveaboard cruise.

This was the absolute pinnacle of our entire vacation. We tracked legendary Komodo dragons in the wild, swam alongside massive, majestic manta rays, and snorkeled through some of the most vibrant, pristine, and breathtaking coral waters you will ever see in your lifetime.

For an unparalleled family liveaboard experience, we recommend booking a private or luxury cabin charter through top-rated operators like Komodo Luxury or Teman Liveaboard. Their incredible crews, skilled chefs, and impeccable safety standards made our time at sea completely seamless.

We eventually returned to Denpasar for one final, relaxing family massage and a heartfelt farewell dinner before our long flight home.

Is Bali For You?

If your family loves a mix of rich cultural traditions, deep rainforests, world-class diving, and luxury wellness at an affordable price point, Bali is an absolute paradise. Pacing a 35-day trip allows you to look past the heavily congested tourist spots and discover the true magic of Indonesia.

Bali is an exceptionally affordable destination, making it easy to stay much longer than you may think. The primary expense of a Bali journey is simply getting there. Once you arrive on the island, accommodations, excursions, daily massages, and incredible dining are all very reasonable, making an extended stay both practical and unforgettable.

Ready to Plan Your Own Indonesian Escape?

Designing a flawless itinerary across multiple islands requires expert coordination, verified safety checks, and access to the best boutique gems.

Let the luxury travel specialists at Atlas Wave and Waypoints handle the logistics for you. From securing lie-flat business class seats to chartering the perfect private Phinisi cruise boat, we will build an unforgettable, stress-free family expedition tailored entirely to you. Atlas Wave and Waypoints. Travel Advisory for the way you move.